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Movie Monday - Academy Award winning Costume Designers

Posted on 06 January 2014

Dinner at Eight - Jean Harlow in Gilbert Adrian evening gown

Dinner at Eight - Jean Harlow in Gilbert Adrian evening gown

 

I was thinking today that I wish that Gilbert Adrian had been eligible for an academy award for best costume design during the height of his career.. He designed the clothing for over 250 films, but only his last 2, "Rope" and "Lovely to Look At"  were made when the category for "best costume design" was added to the Oscar's.

 

 Greta Garbo in Gilbert Adrian costume from Mata Hari  
Greta Garbo in Gilbert Adrian costume from Mata Hari

 

Adrian designed costumes not only for Greta Garbo and Jean Harlow, but for all of the 1930s and 1940s leading ladies including Kathryn Hepburn,  Norma Shearer, Joan Crawford, Rosalind Russell, Paulette Goddard, Joan Fontaine, Judy Garland, and Greer Garson, to name a few!

 I'm hoping that someone in the Academy will suggest a posthumous award for Adrian - he richly deserved it! After all, the guy who designed Dorothy's slippers and Joan Crawford's shoulder pads should be given an Oscar, right?  But, until then,  since the Academy Award nominations will be announced in a little over a week, I thought we'd take a trip down memory lane and look at some of the designers who DID win the coveted Oscar for best costume design.

The Academy award for BEST COSTUME DESIGN 

 

 Edith Head costume design for The Heiress starring Olivia de Havilland 1949  

Edith Head costume design for The Heiress starring Olivia de Havilland 1949

 

1948
    Black and White: Roger K. Furse - Hamlet    
    Color:  Dorothy Jeakins, Barbara Karinska - Joan of Arc
 1949
    Black and White:  Edith Head, Gile Steele - The Heiress     
    Color:  Leah Rhodes, William Travilla, Marjorie Best - Adventures of Don Juan
 1950
    Black and White:  Edith Head, Charles LeMaire All About Eve

 

 

Edith Head and Charles LeMaire shared the Oscar for All About Eve

  
    Color: Edith Head, Dorothy Jeakins, Elois Jenssen, Gile Steele, Gwen Wakeling - Samson & Delilah
 1951
    Black and White:  Edith Head - A Place in the Sun
    Color:  Walter Plunkett, Irene Sharaff - An American in Paris

 

 Walter Plunkett, Irene Sharaff - Best Costume Design for An American in Paris  
Walter Plunkett, Irene Sharaff - Best Costume Design for An American in Paris

 

 1952
    Black and White:  Helen Rose - The Bad and the Beautiful     
    Color:  Marcel Vertes - Moulin Rouge
 1953    
    Black and White:  Edith Head - Roman Holiday
    Color:  Charles LeMaire, Emile Santiago - The Robe
 1954
    Black and White:  Edith Head - Sabrina     
    Color:  Sanzo Wada - Gate of Hell

 

 Edith Head's fabulous costumes for Sabrina - with the It girl herself, Audrey Hepburn   
Edith Head's fabulous costumes for Sabrina - with the It girl herself, Audrey Hepburn

 1955
    Black and White:  Helen Rose - I'll Cry Tomorrow    
    Color:  Charles LeMaire -  Love Is a Many-Splendored Thing
 1956
    Black and White:  Jean Louis - The Solid Gold Cadillac      
    Color:  Irene Sharaff - The King and I
 1957  
    Orry-Kelly - Les Girls      .
 1958     
    Cecil Beaton - Gigi     
 1959     
   Black and White:  Orry-Kelly - Some Like It Hot    

 

Costume designer Orry Kelly with Marilyn Monroe on the set of "Some Like It Hot"

 

Color:  Elizabeth Haffenden - Ben-Hur

1960    
    Black and White: Edith Head and Edward Stevenson - The Facts of Life    
    Color: Arlington Valles - Spartacus
1961   
    Black and White:  Piero Gherardi - La Dolce Vita      
    Color:   Irene Sharaff - West Side Story
 1962     
    Black and White: Norma Koch - Whatever Happened to Baby Jane

 

 Norma Koch - Whatever Happened to Baby Jane  
Norma Koch - Whatever Happened to Baby Jane

     Color:  Mary Wills - The Wonderful World of the Brothers Grimm 
 1963     
    Black and White:  Piero Gherardi - 81/2    
    Color:  Renie Conley, Vittorio Nino Novarese and Irene Sharaff - Cleopatra

 

] Renie Conley, Vittorio Nino Novarese and Irene Sharaff - best costume design for Cleopatra  

Renie Conley, Vittorio Nino Novarese and Irene Sharaff - best costume design for Cleopatra

 

  1964     
    Black and White:  Dorothy Jeakins - The Night of the Iguana    
    Color:  Cecil Beaton - My Fair Lady
 1965     
    Black and White:  Julie Harris - Darling    
    Color:  Phyllis Dalton - Doctor Zhivago 
 1966    
    Black and White:  Irene Sharaff - Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf    
    Color:  Elizabeth Haffenden - A Man for All Seasons 
 1967    
     John Truscott - Camelot  

 

 
John Truscott won the Oscar for Costume design for "Camelot" starring Vanessa Redgrave and Richard Harris

 1968     
    Danilo Donati - Romeo and Juliet     
 1969    
    Margaret Furse - Anne of a Thousand Days      
 1970    
    Vittorio Nino Novarese - Cromwell      
 1971      
    Yvonne Blake and Antonio Castillo - Nicholas and Alexandra
1972        
    Anthony Powell - Travels With My Aunt
1973        
    Edith Head - The Sting
1974
    Theoni V. Aldredge - The Great Gatsby

 

 Theoni Aldredge won Best Costume design for The Great Gatsby in 1974  Theoni Aldredge won Best Costume design for The Great Gatsby in 1974

1975
    Milena Canonero and Ulla-Britt Soderlund - Barry Lyndon
1976
    Danilo Donati - Fellini's Casanova
1977
    John Mollo - Star Wars
1978
     Anthony Powell - Death on the Nile
1979
    Albert Wolsky - All That Jazz

 

  Albert Wolsky - Costume designer for All That Jazz   
Albert Wolsky - Costume designer for All That Jazz


1980
    Anthony Powell – Tess
1981
    Milena Canonero - Chariots of Fire
1982
     Bhanu Athaiya and John Mollo – Gandhi
1983
    Marik Vos - Fanny and Alexander
1984
    Theodor Pistek – Amadeus

 

 Elizabeth Berridge and Tom Hulce in Amadeus for which Theodor Pistek won an award for Best Costume Design
Elizabeth Berridge and Tom Hulce in Amadeus for which Theodor Pistek won an award for Best Costume Design

1985
    Emi Wada – Ran
1986
    Jenny Beavan and John Bright - A Room with a View
1987
     James Acheson - The Last Emperor
1988
    James Acheson - Dangerous Liaisons

 

 

James Acheson won the Oscar for the 1988 costume extravaganza "Dangerous Liasons"

 

1989
    Phyllis Dalton - Henry V
1990
    Franca Squarciapino - Cyrano de Bergerac
1991
    Albert Wolsky – Bugsy
1992
    Eiko Ishioka - Bram Stoker's Dracula
1993 
    Gabriella Pescucci - The Age of Innocence
1994
    Tim Chappel and Lizzy Gardiner - The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert

 

 Tim Chappel and Lizzy Gardiner - The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert  

Tim Chappel and Lizzy Gardiner - The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert

 

1995
    James Acheson – Restoration
1996
    Ann Roth - The English Patient
1997
     Deborah Lynn Scott – Titanic

 

 Deborah Lynn Scott costume sketch for Kate Winslet - Titanic  

Deborah Lynn Scott costume sketch for Kate Winslet - Titanic

 

1998
    Sandy Powell - Shakespeare in Love
1999
    Lindy Hemming - Topsy-Turvy
2000
    Janty Yates – Gladiator
2001
    Catherine Martin and Angus Strathie - Moulin Rouge!
2002
    Colleen Atwood – Chicago

 

Catherine Zeta-Jones,  Richard Gere, and  Renee Zellweger in "Chicago" for which Coleen Atwood won the Oscar

 

2003
    Ngila Dickson and Richard Taylor - The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King
2004
    Sandy Powell - The Aviator
2005
    Colleen Atwood - Memoirs of a Geisha
2006
    Milena Canonero - Marie Antoinette
2007 
    Alexandra Byrne - Elizabeth: The Golden Age
2008 
    Michael O'Connor - The Duchess
2009
    Sandy Powell - The Young Victoria

 

Sandy Powell designed the costumes for "Young Victoria" - Emily Blunt is shown here in Vicotria's wedding gown

2010
    Colleen Atwood - Alice in Wonderland
2011
    Mark Bridges - The Artist
2012
    Jacqueline Durran -  Anna Karenina    

 

Any guesses on costume design Oscar winner for this year? Not all costume designers design their pieces from scratch, for example,  I predict Michael Wilkinson will be the big winner this year for "American Hustle" -( dressingvintage.com was fortunate to provide some of the clothing and accessories for the film) Michael used his costume designer skills to carefully select the right pieces from the late 1970s that represented the personalities of the various characters in the film.  He did such a masterful job evoking the feeling of the times - I especially loved the phenomenal Halston and Gucci pieces they used for Amy Adams - incredible! What are your predictions?

 

Michael Wilkinson was the costume designer for the 2013 film American Hustle

    

 

 

 

 

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